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  1. #1
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    Boost seems way to high. Help!

    Help!

    Running Cobb Stage 1 Drive map. Drop in high flow air filter is the only other mod. Otherwise stock.

    3rd gear 2500 RPM to redline and 4th gear 2500 RPM to nearly redline. It was 69 degrees out and I am running about 95 oct at the moment. Typically would be 91 oct Arizona. I have attached the datalogs and graphs from virtual dyno software. It feels fairly slow to be honest but, I have higher boost levels than expected still. What can we make of this? I really do not want to destroy the engine. There were no negative timing corrections however so that looks good.


    Something to keep in mind. This car has new turbos and waste gates factory replaced. It has a new thermostat ( not sure that matters ), all new coils and all new spark plugs. It previously had a JB+ on it but was removed and car started and stop cycled prior to flashing with Cobb AP V3.




    Click here to enlarge



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    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    Any chance you could load your logs to Datazap.me? These are pretty tough to read without labels on the axes.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by EvanL Click here to enlarge
    Any chance you could load your logs to Datazap.me? These are pretty tough to read without labels on the axes.
    I'll load it there in about 2hrs when I get home. Thanks for looking

  4. #4
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    Your boost there on the graph says 13.x psi. Stage 1 OTS targets that range, nothing abnormal at first glance. Datazap is a great tool definitely use it next time.

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    Datazap - Cobb St 1 Drive is the first screenshot and Cobb St 1 Aggressive is the second. Do these look with in range of normal?
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    Hard to say. Best is to post a link to datazap logs directly.

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  8. #8
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    Aside from some mild overboosting and HOT chargebair temps it looks good to me. Boost isn't excessively high it's just a little over target, if that makes sense.
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    Aside from some mild overboosting and HOT chargebair temps it looks good to me. Boost isn't excessively high it's just a little over target, if that makes sense.

    Ok good. New to the n54 tunning scene so just wanted to make sure. Heat control seems to be a real issue with this car. I'm going to get scoops and fmic upgrade in the next few months to help the heat. Any other suggestions I should consider?

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    No suggestions but timing is REALLY weak on both logs.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rtaylor Click here to enlarge
    Ok good. New to the n54 tunning scene so just wanted to make sure. Heat control seems to be a real issue with this car. I'm going to get scoops and fmic upgrade in the next few months to help the heat. Any other suggestions I should consider?
    Sounds like a good plan. An upgraded FMIC is a must because those CATs are killing timing.

    Also, a protune is never a bad idea.
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by stanlalee Click here to enlarge
    No suggestions but timing is REALLY weak on both logs.
    The charge air temps are reducing timing targets.
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    Still seems low. At 5700rpm he's only at 111F and it dips down to 1.9. Peaks temps at the end of the run are 131F which is very hot but 3.4 at 6800rpm seems low to me even at those temps.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Would you all recommend FMIC upgrade, Intake, and Pro tune in this order or should I consider a pro tune first and add the others later?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rtaylor Click here to enlarge
    Would you all recommend FMIC upgrade, Intake, and Pro tune in this order or should I consider a pro tune first and add the others later?
    Get the parts then tune for them.
    BRAND NEW IN BOX 991.2 standard/non-pse SPW cat bypass pipe for sale - $899 shipped

    New generic 991.2 PSE bypass pipes - $499 shipped

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    If you get the Protune first you'll need to get Protuned again after you get the hardware.

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    Yup, parts first then protune. The protune wakes the cobb tune up tremendously, almost like the OTS cobb tune does over stock. Try not to run the base ots cobb tune for too long, bc you're missing out!
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    ESS 6XX kit

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rtaylor Click here to enlarge
    Would you all recommend FMIC upgrade, Intake, and Pro tune in this order or should I consider a pro tune first and add the others later?
    If you go through proTUNINGfreaks all retuning for added bolt-ons are free. My opinion is that an upgraded FMIC is a must do, however.
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  19. #19
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    Can't really afford a FMIC at the moment but, will soon lol. I may pay for a protune from PTF this week and go from there with re tune after the bolt on parts. I should still see gains I assume prior to the FMIC?

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