Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP - bucket vs bucketless?

[totti]

Hey guys,

It's time to upgrade my stock LPFP.

My car is FBO, inlets, stock turbos, running E45-E50.

What is the current trend with fuel-it stage 2 options - Bucketless vs bucket?

Sure bucketless flows more but at the compromise of potential fuel starvation under extreme driving conditions.

I have with no intentions of ever upgrading turbos or fuel system (PI or meth etc).

Which should i purchase? TIA

[NA55]

Both should be able to handle any FBO setup upto e60. Bucketless has the advantage of less down time, and is easier to resell.

[Sticky]

Bucketless has the advantage of less down time, and is easier to resell.

Are there any other advantages?

[NA55]

Are there any other advantages?

I believe the bucketless LPFP flows 25% more, but to answer the OP's question, there are no other advantages.

[iminhell1]

I believe the bucketless LPFP flows 25% more, but to answer the OP's question, there are no other advantages.

I just find that hard to believe.

They also say the lines are a restriction.
The filter in the HPFP is a restriction.
And the restriction is a restriction.

It's honestly sounding like whatever new product they want to push is replacing some new found problem, that was never there until the product was made. It's just marketing.

But you know the one thing no one seems to be playing with, and all fuel goes through it?
The filter assy.

[bradsm87]

Of course the bucket option is best. Manufacturers didn't just put them in pretty much every car in the last 30 years for nothing. The bucket option is way better for preventing fuel starvation.

The Stage 2 DIY option is cheap and you only need to swap the lid and fuel sender so it's hardly "DIY" as the hard bit of fitting the pump to the bucket is still done already.

[totti]

Good point there Brad, I'm considering the Boost Concepts DIY bucket option do avoid down time and international shipping.

[AWSAWS]

Of course the bucket option is best. Manufacturers didn't just put them in pretty much every car in the last 30 years for nothing. The bucket option is way better for preventing fuel starvation.

The Stage 2 DIY option is cheap and you only need to swap the lid and fuel sender so it's hardly "DIY" as the hard bit of fitting the pump to the bucket is still done already.

They made buckets because hydramat technology wasn't an option. Hydramat technology or similar will replace all buckets in the future if costs lower.

I don't believe a bucket is any better than a mat pinned to the bottom of the tank.

[Sticky]

But you know the one thing no one seems to be playing with, and all fuel goes through it?
The filter assy.

Ok so why not?

[EJ_Reynolds]

Bucketless, either way you shouldn't be beating on your car with extremely low fuel.

[AWSAWS]

Bucketless, either way you shouldn't be beating on your car with extremely low fuel.

It's understandable at a drag strip. Race track not so much but it may be a case that you went out with half a tank and you want to know how far you can push it before you stop.

The hydramats are pretty big. They cover a pretty good sized area in the tank and just an part of it needs to touch fuel for it to seemingly provide a continuous uninterrupted flow. I'm sure it can maintain fill flow on way less than a bucket can.

[trevorlee02]

@iminhell1 - I replaced the filter assembly, you are correct as that is a restriction which needs to be overcome if power is the goal. The supposed zero maintenance regulator assembly requires major overhaul when 2 Walbro 455's are throwing more fuel than it can handle at it. My regulator got wore out and remained open after a few good pulls. I personally placed an external regulator just outside of the tank that goes thru an inline filter assembly which is similar to the lpfp upgraded inline system. Therefore the filter is only receiving what the fuel pressure is that I set it at and I have raised my pressure to remained a constant by about 10 psi more than factory...

[AWSAWS]

@iminhell1 - I replaced the filter assembly, you are correct as that is a restriction which needs to be overcome if power is the goal. The supposed zero maintenance regulator assembly requires major overhaul when 2 Walbro 455's are throwing more fuel than it can handle at it. My regulator got wore out and remained open after a few good pulls. I personally placed an external regulator just outside of the tank that goes thru an inline filter assembly which is similar to the lpfp upgraded inline system. Therefore the filter is only receiving what the fuel pressure is that I set it at and I have raised my pressure to remained a constant by about 10 psi more than factory...

Info on the external regulator setup would be good! I am a bit concerned with the pressures myself if I run a second pump. Not been to the drag strip since the diy bucketless to see how she goes on e50 and 25psi

[Dave@Fuel-It!]

The bucketless wasn't made to replace a "new found" problem. Our bucketless pump outflows a standard stage 2 LPFP by about 27%. Customers, including myself have pushed the bucketless pump to near 600 whp on full e85, and even over 600 on mixes.

You have options, but seeing that you don't ever plan to upgrade turbos, PI etc, the added flow that the bucketless offers, really isn't a benefit to you, our standard stage 2 with a bucket will more than suffice.

There really isn't downtime either... you can purchase our standard stage 2, we include a core charge that is refunded after you send us back your OEM bucket in solid, working condition. We also offer a DIY option (the cheapest stage 2 option available)- we include a core charge as well, also refunded after you send back your bucket.

Shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

-Dave

[Sticky]

including myself have pushed the bucketless pump to near 600 whp on full e85, and even over 600 on mixes.

That's impressive.

At what point does one have to start looking at PI?

[totti]

The bucketless wasn't made to replace a "new found" problem. Our bucketless pump outflows a standard stage 2 LPFP by about 27%. Customers, including myself have pushed the bucketless pump to near 600 whp on full e85, and even over 600 on mixes.

You have options, but seeing that you don't ever plan to upgrade turbos, PI etc, the added flow that the bucketless offers, really isn't a benefit to you, our standard stage 2 with a bucket will more than suffice.

There really isn't downtime either... you can purchase our standard stage 2, we include a core charge that is refunded after you send us back your OEM bucket in solid, working condition. We also offer a DIY option (the cheapest stage 2 option available)- we include a core charge as well, also refunded after you send back your bucket.

Shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

-Dave

Thanks Dave, I appreciate your input, but I'm in Australia. Meaning you charge $70USD to ship to me, then I have to return my core for a further $30-40USD, to receive $150USD. That's a lot of wasted money, time and hassle with international shipping

[AWSAWS]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate your input, but I'm in Australia. Meaning you charge $70USD to ship to me, then I have to return my core for a further $30-40USD, to receive $150USD. That's a lot of wasted money, time and hassle with international shipping

Buy yourself a broken fuel pump bucket for cheap. Then order up a walbro 455 pump and a holley hydramat.
Dremel the bottom off the pump. Rip out the old 255 pump and plastic holding it. Just leep the fuel level sensor.
Cut the pump wires and solder the new pump to those wires. Tape it or heat shrink it to prevent shorting out.
Then just drop it in the car. You'll save alot of money doing that. You can sacrifice your existing pump to be cheaper. i.e. Do it on a weekend.

Use zip ties and jubilee clips to secure the pump inside the bucket.

[totti]

Buy yourself a broken fuel pump bucket for cheap. Then order up a walbro 455 pump and a holley hydramat.
Dremel the bottom off the pump. Rip out the old 255 pump and plastic holding it. Just leep the fuel level sensor.
Cut the pump wires and solder the new pump to those wires. Tape it or heat shrink it to prevent shorting out.
Then just drop it in the car. You'll save alot of money doing that. You can sacrifice your existing pump to be cheaper. i.e. Do it on a weekend.

Use zip ties and jubilee clips to secure the pump inside the bucket.

Sounds tempting.. any good step by step DIY threads?

[Sticky]

Sounds tempting.. any good step by step DIY threads?

Good question...

[AWSAWS]

Sounds tempting.. any good step by step DIY threads?

I dont have a diy. I'm sure somebody could do one.
I actually temporarily zip tied my pump outside of the bucket as I plan to run dual pumps in the future.

[AWSAWS]

Best I have at the moment
http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...bucketless-diy

[Sticky]

Best I have at the moment
http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...bucketless-diy

That's a good DIY...

[spool twice]

why not just turn the bucket into it's own "surge" tank? Not an N54, but I did this on my Audi S5. I run a side-strapped 255lph on the outside of the bucket, it's boost/hobbs switch activated at 8psi. It's sole purpose is to suck fuel from the tank at heavy throttle settings using the bucket as a "guide" and replenish the bucket with a hose feeding into the top of the lid pushed 3/4 of the way inside the bucket.

So far I've found no compromise to this system, I always have full performance even down to 2 gallons of fuel remaining in the tank.

basically similar to what this guy did on his SRT-4

[AWSAWS]

With the hydramat the whole tank becomes your bucket and there's no need for a venturi or second pump and the power and plumbing it requires to fill the bucket.