N54 Rebirth - Forged Internal Build

[Sticky]

Stolen and recovered just now. Investigation is in progress.

I'll update IG, but let's leave this post dedicated to tech.

Edited what you requested and we'll keep it on topic.

[Sered]

$#@! like this makes me want to put my car in valet mode and then lock out the jb4 steering wheel controls when I leave it. I'm so glad I have a garage to park it in

[Sered]

@The Convert and @The Ghost are correct about powerbands.

After first gear, any lower-end power advantage that hybrid twins has is gone. And even in first gear, on a properly setup single; the amount is so minute and so brief that it doesn't really make a difference.

And psi for psi, that generally comes down to the efficiency of the compressor. Two smaller hybrid twins are not going to make the same kind of power at 17+psi that a 62mm+ single will make. Now once you factor in the larger hybrids and inlets, etc; the distance closes until you start going upwards of 23-24psi (the singles are just getting into their efficiency island at that point).

I've still not seen any hybrids make 500-520whp on 17psi like a proper single can on 93. For the record, the OP's car is not the only one that has hit those kinds of numbers on smaller boost levels.

[natedog7700]

Sorry, I have to chime in.

I've had maxed stock turbos (455whp before inlets were out), held the stock frame WR for a period of time, and a couple ST setups and can tell you that without a doubt the single turbo is MUCH faster, even when both are in the 2x psi level.

For an anecdotal, but highly relevant, comparison:

• Baseline: Here is my healthy running 20T setup (28psi, kill mode) from above against a HCI/ZR1 trans C6Z06 https://vimeo.com/130172711 (http://tinyurl.com/ztnqpdd)
• Hybrid vs. ST: Here is my same pair of VTT 2+ (20T, clipped, badass exact set from my WR car) on a DCT car vs. my stock motor, 6MT 6466G2 at 28psi (I raced the C6Z in this video at 23psi). https://vimeo.com/150076756 (http://tinyurl.com/z4lxc3b)

The difference is huge.

I hope this helps put to rest the thought that hybrids are somehow faster.

Now, in the 1/8 mile who knows. I'm a roll race guy; I've given up on good times in 1320 in this car (it sucks for the power it puts down, even on stock turbos). It does very well in the second 1/8 and beyond, but by then your ET will be poor.

Thanks for sharing, very cool videos. Much respect!

[The Ghost]

For completeness sake and for future reference, here is my rebuild parts list. Note, the bearing part numbers will be different for you. You must match the numbers on your crank and block to determine the needed bearings (refer to the BMW TIS for details).

Part	Quantity	Part #
Head gasket (BMW)	1	11127557265
Front crank seal	1	11117547842
Rear main seal	1	11117584398
Oil pan gasket	1	11137548031
Cam gear bolt (2x)	2	11367524954
Complete block aluminum screw set	1	11110426591
Head bolt set	1	11127574303
Valve cover gasket	1	11127565286
HPFP cap cover (aluminum)	1	11117530262
Vacum pump gasket	1	11667525815
HPFP o-ring	1	13517571363
Oil filter housing gasket	1	11428637821
Block dowel (2x)	2	11121726241
Bedplate injection valve (2x)	2	11117506546
Bedplate sealant: Loctite 171000 primer	1	83 19 7 515 683
Bedplate sealant: Loctite 193140 liquid gasket	1	83 19 0 439 030
Flywheel bolts (x6)	6	11227520706
Rod Bearings	12	Varies (e.g. 11247576714)
Bore hone, boil block	1	Machine Shop
Exhaust gasket o-rings (6x)	6	11627558906
Main bedblate bolts (14x)	14	11117589711
Mains - Bedplate (6x)	6	11217627034
Mains - Bedplate (1x)	1	11217627033
Mains - Crankcase (6x)	6	11217627037
Mains - Thrust (1x)	1	11218605858

[135pats]

Your contributions will be sorely missed...Enjoy the LS7