DCT adaptations reset, again

[AWSAWS]

OK,
I've asked about this before. Previously I was asking how to do it.
I know I can reset the DCT transmission with tool32 and I think I can also do it with Rheingold/ISTA.

My question now is. Has anyone done this and which values did you reset?

These are the options in tool 32 translated. I think K1 is clutch 1, K2, clutch 2:

<ARGCOMMENT> 0xA0 = adaptation values Kiss Point K1 </ ARGCOMMENT>
<ARGCOMMENT> 0xA1 = adaptation values Kiss Point K2 </ ARGCOMMENT>
<ARGCOMMENT> 0xA2 = adaptation values clutch torque map K1 </ ARGCOMMENT>
<ARGCOMMENT> 0xA3 = adaptation values clutch torque map K2 </ ARGCOMMENT>
<ARGCOMMENT> 0xB1 = adaptation values for DRM </ ARGCOMMENT>
<ARGCOMMENT> 0xB2 = adaptation values of Semi slip for courses 1-7 </ ARGCOMMENT>

The things I don't like about mine right now are:

1. The car moves off too slowly (clucth slip setting when moving off from a stop)
2. When down shifting, there's a 1 second period for the gear to accept power. (The rev match happens instantly and it blips, but if you are WOT then the power doesn't get fully transmitted to the wheels for around a second. It feels like it slips the clutch for that 1 second)

[bigdnno98]

I'm really not a fan of this DCT. My clutch doesn't slip but I have the same lag you have when getting on to the throttle from a stop. It takes almost a full second for the car to respond. It did it stock so I know it's not my JB4/BEF setup. I did flash the newest BMW software onto the car and that helped some. Then the MHD BEF also helped some, but I still get that lag, mostly when stopped and getting onto the gas, city driving. I really wish I had found an MT 335is at this point.

[AWSAWS]

I'm just wondering if it has adapted this way though. I bought mine used so the previous driver's style and running the car without any tune may have made it worse than it should be. Although I've put 30,000 miles on it myself so it has probably learned my style.

There's alot of people with Z4's etc that suggest a reset is necessary every 9 months or so or it can become less than ideal to drive.

I want to set a good time at the drag strip. By stamping the throttle the lag is costing me about 0.25 seconds over the 60ft where it rolls forward slowly but starting the timer and then wakes up. By which time I've already spent 2.5 seconds covering 60ft. I have Toyo R888's now and still my 60ft times suck thanks to this.

Next time I'll have to be more aggressive with the engage LC, let revs drop, hit the gas, method.

Thing is in England the lights go, all yellow, green. They don't move down the tree like i see on the US lights. Between yellow and green is about 0.4 seconds. It takes about 1.2 seconds to engage LC, raise the revs and then let the revs drop and get back on it again. By that time the car next to me is probably 10 lengths up.

Really hoping for adjustable LC.

Not to mention this is Fking throttle response is dangerous at junctions.

[bigdnno98]

I exactly what you're talking about in all instances, especially the throttle response at junctions. Glad to know it's not just my car. Same here with the drag strip, even down to the tree. We call it a pro-tree here. Two staging yellow lights, then all 4 yellows light at once, then green. Really hard to win races in a DCT on a pro-tree. I've been cutting 2.2 and 2.3 60's. Absolutely horrible. I wish I had bought an AT or MT at this point. Can we reset DCT adaptations in MHD? I doubt it huh? My buddy is the one that flashed the new BMW software on the car with ISTA, so I can have him reset DCT adaptions if need be. I'm also going to have him flash the 135i DCT software on my car so I can get the 3500 RPM LC instead of the ridiculous 5k LC.

[LMB335is]

I'm really not a fan of this DCT. My clutch doesn't slip but I have the same lag you have when getting on to the throttle from a stop. It takes almost a full second for the car to respond. It did it stock so I know it's not my JB4/BEF setup. I did flash the newest BMW software onto the car and that helped some. Then the MHD BEF also helped some, but I still get that lag, mostly when stopped and getting onto the gas, city driving. I really wish I had found an MT 335is at this point.

I'm just wondering if it has adapted this way though. I bought mine used so the previous driver's style and running the car without any tune may have made it worse than it should be. Although I've put 30,000 miles on it myself so it has probably learned my style.

There's alot of people with Z4's etc that suggest a reset is necessary every 9 months or so or it can become less than ideal to drive.

I want to set a good time at the drag strip. By stamping the throttle the lag is costing me about 0.25 seconds over the 60ft where it rolls forward slowly but starting the timer and then wakes up. By which time I've already spent 2.5 seconds covering 60ft. I have Toyo R888's now and still my 60ft times suck thanks to this.

Next time I'll have to be more aggressive with the engage LC, let revs drop, hit the gas, method.

Thing is in England the lights go, all yellow, green. They don't move down the tree like i see on the US lights. Between yellow and green is about 0.4 seconds. It takes about 1.2 seconds to engage LC, raise the revs and then let the revs drop and get back on it again. By that time the car next to me is probably 10 lengths up.

Really hoping for adjustable LC.

Not to mention this is Fking throttle response is dangerous at junctions.

Do both of you drive in sport/sport manual mode all the time or just use sport/drive mode?

[bigdnno98]

I DD in D with the sport button pressed.

[AWSAWS]

I'm always in sport mode. 90% manual mode. Rarely D mode at all.

[AWSAWS]

Tool32 looks the best reset option also I loaded ISTA (Rheingold) yesterday and saw the servicing section has some transmission stuff in there. Something like DKG for DCT. I was tempted to look at doing it through there because I think it will run an initialisation process for you as well.
I'm very very close to also loading on the 135i TCU file but trying to find out if it will work on a European model. I don't want to flash with Winkfp for it to then error and leave my transmission not functioning at all.
I was going to reset adaptations first and then do a 135i flash but I think now I will just try the 135i file and the launch control.

Asked Musc a few questions in PM and in threads on other sites.

[bigdnno98]

Tool32 looks the best reset option also I loaded ISTA (Rheingold) yesterday and saw the servicing section has some transmission stuff in there. Something like DKG for DCT. I was tempted to look at doing it through there because I think it will run an initialisation process for you as well.
I'm very very close to also loading on the 135i TCU file but trying to find out if it will work on a European model. I don't want to flash with Winkfp for it to then error and leave my transmission not functioning at all.
I was going to reset adaptations first and then do a 135i flash but I think now I will just try the 135i file and the launch control.

Asked Musc a few questions in PM and in threads on other sites.

Let us know how it goes, I'm very interested in anything that makes this DCT more enjoyable to drive LOL.

[Tony@Codewerx]

Tools32 is not going to give you the full reset ...

The problem you have could be related to the version of the DCT software your ride in as well.

some versions definitely works better than others.

[AWSAWS]

Definately true. Some of the 135i guys have been having issues so bad that the car would stall in 1st until it was reset. Imagine that when pulling out of a junction!
Not sure I'll reset yet. The car is very drivable. I don't want to make things possibly worse.

There is some advice that a reset shouldn't be done as it can accelerate wear. The adaptation is supposed to adjust as the clutches age. Probably because it would push your clutch as if brand new. Not fully sure what the reason could be.

[Artsoasis]

delete

[Artsoasis]

I'm really not a fan of this DCT. My clutch doesn't slip but I have the same lag you have when getting on to the throttle from a stop. It takes almost a full second for the car to respond. It did it stock so I know it's not my JB4/BEF setup. I did flash the newest BMW software onto the car and that helped some. Then the MHD BEF also helped some, but I still get that lag, mostly when stopped and getting onto the gas, city driving. I really wish I had found an MT 335is at this point.

I have never had that issue with my car. Buraq definitely does wonders for a 335is.

[CarAbuser]

Make sure you have the latet DCT firmware.

My DCT behaviour improved a lot when my car was updated. It was done at the same time as the DME was upgraded from IMC0S to INA0S so improvements may also have come from how the DME was delivering power during shifts.

I still get indecisiveness when rolling up to junctions but you can remedy that by changing your driving style. I find that if you let the car coast without touching the accelerator pedal then try and move away quickly it takes a while to sort itself out, but if you keep slight pressure on the pedal it pulls away fine.

The pause you are getting when downshifting could be clutch slip. To be expected if you have a JB4 but if you have flash only then it's a problem with the tune.

[AWSAWS]

I'm on the latest ZB file. Thinking about trying the 135is ZB file but my hardware part no. looks different to 335is and 135is so I'm not to sure it will work.
The lag appears to be the 1st and 2nd gear clutch slipping features that the car employs to make the car ease forward instead of bolting like a scalded cat.
It would be pretty nice to have 2 modes. Street driving and Drag racing with adaptations for each. I know Sport mode is a bit like that but I always drive in sport mode so it's possible street driving makes it adapt to being less sporty than it could be.

[LMB335is]

If you want to update the DCT ZUSB it's very easy and I'll help you getting the software, setting it up, and doing the actual flash with step by step instructions if necessary if you have a competent DCAN cable. Euro or NA tranny, makes no difference. The software works for both Euro and NA models. The hardware # changes with the ZUSB #. My original hardware # is not what shows after updating the the TCU. Here's the original. Now my hardware # is 8606066.

[335is-dct]

i have significant downshift lag like is being described in op, but mine is a good 2 seconds delay. i'm wondering if its my tune...

[LMB335is]

The only time I ever had problems with lag, slippage, delays, etc. was when I ran a JB4/BEF. I know the BEF has been updated since I last used it so I can't really speak on the current version. All I know is that with my flash only custom tune I have has none of these problems. I never drive in D mode, only sport/sport manual so downshifting is on me and the kickdown switch is turned off in my tune unless I want to use LC. Throttle response is great other than from a standing start going WOT as it takes a split second to build boost but that's it. I keep the car in it's "powerband" when I drive. It's second nature now. I treat it like a manual except I can't slip the clutch on launch.

[335is-dct]

so lets say you're downshifting to pass traffic... are you manually shifting or letting the car downshift for you? even if i'm manually downshifting, if i'm dropping more than one gear i get incredible lag/hesitation between the car dropping gears and what feels like the clutch actually engaging

[CarAbuser]

I'm on the latest ZB file. Thinking about trying the 135is ZB file but my hardware part no. looks different to 335is and 135is so I'm not to sure it will work.
The lag appears to be the 1st and 2nd gear clutch slipping features that the car employs to make the car ease forward instead of bolting like a scalded cat.
It would be pretty nice to have 2 modes. Street driving and Drag racing with adaptations for each. I know Sport mode is a bit like that but I always drive in sport mode so it's possible street driving makes it adapt to being less sporty than it could be.

Be careful resetting the adaptations too often. There is a drive cycle you are supposed to follow after an adaptation reset which allows the transmission to re-learn correctly. If you aren't following this then you could be inciting extra wear on the clutch packs.
The purpose of the adaptations is for the tranmission to fine tune engagement and adjust for current wear levels and manufacturing variations.

so lets say you're downshifting to pass traffic... are you manually shifting or letting the car downshift for you? even if i'm manually downshifting, if i'm dropping more than one gear i get incredible lag/hesitation between the car dropping gears and what feels like the clutch actually engaging

Try logging it. Make sure you have the torque output and torque limit channels logged. You can tell a lot about how healthy the shifts are by looking at the logged RPM.
If you are using MHD unselect all but the crucial channels as below a certain amount of parameters (14?) the logging frenquency increases so you get better resolution.

[LMB335is]

so lets say you're downshifting to pass traffic... are you manually shifting or letting the car downshift for you? even if i'm manually downshifting, if i'm dropping more than one gear i get incredible lag/hesitation between the car dropping gears and what feels like the clutch actually engaging

I manually shift. But even in sport/sport there's no lag. Whether it's one gear or three there's no hesitation. Clutch engagement is instantaneous and brutal. I don't know what tune you're running and I'm far from a tuning expert in any way, shape, or fashion but your car shouldn't be doing that if properly set up.

[bigdnno98]

I manually shift. But even in sport/sport there's no lag. Whether it's one gear or three there's no hesitation. Clutch engagement is instantaneous and brutal. I don't know what tune you're running and I'm far from a tuning expert in any way, shape, or fashion but your car shouldn't be doing that if properly set up.

The problem is that I love my JB4 and am going to install meth this weekend. I won't run a flash only tune and meth. So basically I need someone that can tune my BEF to maximize performance of the DCT. BQ won't tune a BEF. Only trebila so far. I'm not sure how much experience he has tuning DCTs.

[LMB335is]

I understand. I've got nothing bad to say about the JB4 or BMS products in general, it just wasn't cutting it in my situation. I've never had any interest in meth, it was just more sh%t to eff with. I prefer going E85 but that's just me. The only guy that comes to mind would be V8bait but I don't know if he does BEF's or if he even does tunes on the side any more. Can't hurt to ask though.

[335is-dct]

Try logging it. Make sure you have the torque output and torque limit channels logged. You can tell a lot about how healthy the shifts are by looking at the logged RPM.
If you are using MHD unselect all but the crucial channels as below a certain amount of parameters (14?) the logging frenquency increases so you get better resolution.

here is what it looks like logged. you can see torque output/rpm rise, plateu, and then sharply rise again. thats the hesitation that i'm experiencing. very frustrating, tuner is unable to fix.

http://datazap.me/u/dsc08c/dct-downs...og=0&data=4-22

[bigdnno98]

Mine from yesterday

http://datazap.me/u/bigdnno98/2011-3...1&zoom=512-576