Removing OEM inlet pipe tips and tricks.

[Chris@Boost Concepts Inc]

Hey guys,

I just removed the OEM inlet pipes and wanted to share my experience with the community to maybe help someone else out.

First of all, I did this during a turbo swap so the subframe was out which was helpful, so if you are planning to go with upgraded twins I highly recommend doing this job at the same time regardless of whose Inlets you decide to purchase.

The rear inlet is simply going to have to be cut. I tried about 10 different ways to remove it in one piece before finally submitting to the fact that the only way to accomplish that would be to drop the motor, simply too tight near the rear turbo area. I will upload some pictures tomorrow to help with the visuals. But for now I will add the text while it's fresh in my mind. This write up assumes you have read other write-ups about getting everything cleared to the point of removal such as down pipes, filters, fresh air cabin filter deck, valve cover beauty cover, drained coolant system and removed the reservoir tank and vacuum canisters. If you are doing turbos at the same time you'll also have the old units removed and water pump and Thermostat. Plenty of write-ups for all of those with a quick search.

For the rear inlet, make sure you remove the pcv hose amd small wire plug going to it from the inlet. Therw are two tabs on the front and back that must be gently pryed out with a small flat blade screw driver. It then simply pops up and out.

There are 2 T30 torx screws that hold the inlet to the back of the cylinder head. There is no room to fit a ratchet and socket back there so it took some Macgyvering to accomplish removal. I used a T30 bit from a cheap screwdriver bitset I have had for years. These can be found at almost any hardware store and usually come in a case or rubber strip with various other type bits and screwdriver heads.

It requires a 1/4" wrench, I have a full set of ratcheting wrenches which made the job much simpler. I put a layer of electrical tape over the back of the bit to hold it in the wrenches boxed end and keep it from sliding around. It takes a minute to situate your hands over the passenger side fender and get back there and feel the torx bit's way into the screw head. Once you get it in, break it loose and give it about two turns to fully losen it. For mine after that they were easily removed with fingers to expedite the task. Both are accomplished the same way.

With wverything disconnected from thw rwar inlet and it being loose now, you can get at it from under the car and pull it off the turbo (if your not swapping to hybrids and already have them removed) and pull it towards the passenger side of the car as nuvh as possible. I cut the thin tube with a small body air saw which made quick work through the plastic. But you will likely need a longer sawsall blade if the turbos are not being removed. You should cut it just before the bend towards the turbo inlet. Once it is cut it will pull out easily from the top towards the drivers side of the car. Rear one done!

For the front inlet, I think it will need to be cut to remove unless your turbos and estriol are your for replacement. Mine were out so I was able to remove the two t30 torx screws holding the inlet to the front of the motor . I was able to use a ratchet on these, tight but workable. Once loose, fingers again were faster and easier then continuing with the ratchet. I then removed the large upper radiator hose, quick spring clips just like throttle body flange, simply use a small flat tip to lift it up and snap it into the unlocked position. These hose fitting were tight and required some wiggling and light pressure with a large flat blade driver to break loose. Don't get crazy when prying, it is plastic after all. Once both ends are loose, remove and see the new clearance available to maneuver the inlet. Mine went out the bottom with a little twisting and care to make sure all the hoses were unlatched from the molded on loom on the inlet. Much cleaner looking with it removed and belt changes look like they will be a snap now.

If your turbos and waterpump are still on the car, you will need to cut the inlet same as the rear one and remove from the top.

All in all the actual job of removing the inlet with the right tools I listed isn't too bad but requires removal of alot of other items to gain access. I would say after doing this that I would wait and do Inlets at the same time as upgraded turbos or at least downpipes because the job piggy backs well and will save alot of extra work. If you are just doing inlets and want to remove all of the oem inlet piping, Plan on about 4-5 hours start to finish first time around with proper tools on the fast side and more if your a leisurely wrenches. Hope this helps and I will post up some pictures tomorrow to go along with the writup and make things clearer!

Chris

[max]

Thanks Chris, great write-up! Would rec if i could.

[secretsquirrel]

This is a very helpful post and will likely save a ton of cumulative hours.

[rooringhusky]

Front can be taken out without cutting at all. Just need to remove radiator fan, waterpump and your good to go! (If replacing inlets without replacing turbos). Good post will be helpful to others!

[zeenon53]

Thanks!

[wreckz]

Bump so I can read up on this later

[DavidV]

Great post

[Sticky]

Just repped and here's a bump for a very helpful write up.

[spxxx]

Subbed

[Optigrab]

thank you!
so there is no way to do the front inlet without removing the water pump?

[rooringhusky]

No way without removing Waterpump. You may be able to get the Inlet on the turbo snout but you wont have any room to stick a socket in the there and tighten/clamp down. Waterpump isn't a difficult removal if your already in there anyways, get to it!

[totti]

thank you!
so there is no way to do the front inlet without removing the water pump?

Can anyone confirm this? I find it hard to believe that the few hundred/thousand ppl with upgraded inlets have all had to remove the waterpump to fit the front pipe.

I've heard some people say they can install the front pipe in 30-45 minutes!

[jlcf22]

I heard you don't have to remove the water pump but what do I know

[totti]

I heard you don't have to remove the water pump but what do I know

I hope you are correct.. I will find out in a few weeks the hard way!

[terryd5150]

Repped for content; not for spelling, though.

You had to have typed that from your phone; mine gets me every time.

[Tzu]

I've removed/installed stock intake pipes and waterpump was not required to be removed first. I cant imagine having to remove the WP just to tighten a clamp on the turbo side of the aftermarket inlets. I'm certain that a micro wrench would work just fine.

[Optigrab]

Rob said that it is not necessary to remove the waterpump.....

not sure why there are so many conflicting reports

[SCGT]

It's absolutely not necessary to remove the waterpump. Pull the vacuum canisters out and a couple other things and it's right there. 2007 E90 anyway.

[rooringhusky]

I digress, sorry for the conflicting reports guys.

On that note, I got another Inlet install i'm doing later this week and will followup to let you know how easy/difficult it is to do without waterpump removal.

[Chris@Boost Concepts Inc]

I was trying to remove it without cutting it up or removing the radiator and fan. I wiggled and tried to pull it from the top, and maybe with some additional pieces removed it would have come out the top, but because I had the subframe out for a turbo upgrade and was changing the Waterpump and Thermostat also it was simpler to go out through the bottom for me.

If it were to come out the top, I imagine the coolant hoses would need to come off, probably the charge pipe from the intercooler also. Hard to say now that mines out and the new stuff is going in.

[Chris@Boost Concepts Inc]

Repped for content; not for spelling, though.

You had to have typed that from your phone; mine gets me every time.

Yes.. From my phone, autocorrect is a double edged sword sometimes...lol

[Snertz]

Just did inlets on my car, ended up cutting the stock front inlet for removal. Pulled the intercooler, radiator fan, coolant reservoir, and vacuum canisters first. There was no way for the front inlet to come out in one piece without pulled a ton of lines out of the way, one of which being a rigid line from the AC compressor.

With the vac canisters out of the way install of the front inlet was a snap, easy to reach the the clamp on the turbo snout with a nut driver handle w/ extended socket. Did not need to touch the water pump or drop anything else out of the way besides what was mentioned above. I'll take some pics tonight when I get home.

FWIW my setup is custom fab'd that's similar to TFT inlets, on a 1M; not sure if the lines across the front of the bay are different than that of a 135i/335i but there are extra lines on the driver side for the extra radiator.

[Optigrab]

Just did inlets on my car, ended up cutting the stock front inlet for removal. Pulled the intercooler, radiator fan, coolant reservoir, and vacuum canisters first. There was no way for the front inlet to come out in one piece without pulled a ton of lines out of the way, one of which being a rigid line from the AC compressor.

With the vac canisters out of the way install of the front inlet was a snap, easy to reach the the clamp on the turbo snout with a nut driver handle w/ extended socket. Did not need to touch the water pump or drop anything else out of the way besides what was mentioned above. I'll take some pics tonight when I get home.

FWIW my setup is custom fab'd that's similar to TFT inlets, on a 1M; not sure if the lines across the front of the bay are different than that of a 135i/335i but there are extra lines on the driver side for the extra radiator.

That is good to hear! i have no problem destroying my stock inlets. No plans to sell the car.
I just need to make sure the dust doesn't get int the turbo.

What did you cut them with?

[Snertz]

That is good to hear! i have no problem destroying my stock inlets. No plans to sell the car.
I just need to make sure the dust doesn't get int the turbo.

What did you cut them with?

lol one of these :

works well, just gotta watch out for surrounding lines. The plastic is surprisingly thick.

Here's the angle to get the nut driver on the turbo snout clamp :






Keep in mind my coolant tank and vac canisters are relocated. For those doing stock location inlets you'll probably have to at least move the canisters to get in there.

[Optigrab]

Crap I might be in trouble i have fat sausage fingers!