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Thread: Single turbo tuning help...
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05-23-2014, 01:18 PM #26
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He's hitting almost 20psi @ 6200rpm off his spring. Map 4 is the same as no power to the solenoid or a complete bypass. So either his WG spring is too tight or the lines are swapped around on the WG or solenoid. He has multiple issues though but you don't want to troubleshoot a fueling issue before you have boost control. Going way over target is bad enough but going way over target with a lean AFR or too much advance is much worse.
I'm with Tony on this one. Too many shops screw up these basic things resulting in big headaches for everyone. Experience is key when installing and doing the first few runs on an aftermarket turbo kit! And the first step is to run it off the WG spring so you see a stable 10-13psi depending on what spring is used. With this setup he can run 4x the spring pressure so should have a 10-13psi spring.
Last edited by Terry@BMS; 05-23-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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05-23-2014, 01:20 PM #27
im not arguing. just saying that its probably something simple. vac lines mixed up and/or bad o2 sensor
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05-23-2014, 01:23 PM #28
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I don't think you are... I just want to get this guy on the right track. I dislike when shops screw things up that they should know about. I dislike even more when people don't follow the correct diagnostic steps to solve a problem. But what I dislike the most is when A and B happens and then they contact us expecting us to pick up the pieces for them.
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05-23-2014, 01:28 PM #29
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05-23-2014, 01:29 PM #30
@Terry@BMS @VargasTurboTech
let me ask a technical question..
what happens if you only run a vac line from the compressor to the solenoid. and a vac line from the solenoid to the bottom port of wastegate?
same but you can only double spring? thoughts?- Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
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05-23-2014, 01:36 PM #31
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Burger Motorsports
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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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05-23-2014, 01:38 PM #32
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Works the same but you can only go 2x the spring rate. Ando's 58mm bottom mount kit is actually setup like that as the shop that installed it only ran one vacuum line to the WG and we were too lazy to go under and run another.
But given the choice I prefer running a lighter spring say 10# and the 4x control as it makes for a lot cleaner partial throttle.Burger Motorsports
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05-23-2014, 01:39 PM #33
Hope you figure it out brotha. One word of advise is to start from scratch with the boost lines. Make sure all is plugged from previous TT setup so no open vac lines near intake mani. Then go one by one reading the chart and the solenoid with the vac lines. Make sure non popped off from over boosting too, that does tend to happen etc. Patience is the key as well as reading everything again lol. Goodluck bro!
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05-23-2014, 01:41 PM #34
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05-23-2014, 02:01 PM #35Burger Motorsports
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05-23-2014, 02:50 PM #36
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Ok, so keep throwing lambda codes, doesn't actually trigger a service engine soon light, but I put AFR on oil gauge and everytime I saw it go to 20:1 I read codes, saw it was lambda's, then deleted, then AFR went back to normal. I did a map3 pull with 0 boost additive which according to single turbo setup and guide should be 17psi. Meth scalar is at 60, so I take it that's why meth didn't spray, but it was just a mild pull, stayed right at about 15 psi.
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05-23-2014, 03:14 PM #37
^^ not bad, but still over boosting though. Throttle wants to close.
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05-23-2014, 03:16 PM #38
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05-23-2014, 03:24 PM #39
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Here's the datazap. I took it easy and didn't go full pedal so there did not do a WOT only log. Like I said, trying to watch it and be careful
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05-23-2014, 03:26 PM #40Burger Motorsports
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05-23-2014, 03:45 PM #41
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Yeah, I know, Terry has mentioned this several times, and I completely understand... but my spring rate is 1 bar, same as @Ak335i and like he said that spring is basically too stiff to try and run under 17psi, and map 4 will only target up to 15. I really don't see the dangers in 17psi. And I'm not doing WOT pulls so it's not even seeing that.
That log looks TONS better though. I have a feeling it's still just a matter of having a stiff spring. The shop changed it yesterday which is a PITA due to WG location, and I bet it would look even better with an even lower spring rate. As long as AFR, timing, etc. look good and I'm not soaring up to 20+psi uncontrollably i'm ok with it.
Now I'd like to take care of this lamba code issue and get AFR in check before trying a WOT pull.
These keep popping up and I have to delete ever few minutes or AFR stays pegged at 20:1....
Could this happen if the O2 sensors in the downpipe were switched? I didn't throw these codes until after the shop did the WG spring change yesterday which meant dropping the downpipe to get to the wastegate.
2C32 Lamba probe in front of catalytic converter 2.
trimming control
2C2C Lamba probe in front of catalytic converter 2.
system check
29E0 Fuel Mixture Control
2C31 Lambda probe in front of catalytic converter.
trimming control
29F3 Faulty Low Fuel Pressure Sensor
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05-23-2014, 04:19 PM #42
I believe it sensors were switched it should run like crap right from the start at idle AFAIK.
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05-23-2014, 04:24 PM #43
interesting. you try map 6 set to 17psi all the way?
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05-23-2014, 04:27 PM #44
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05-23-2014, 04:27 PM #45
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05-23-2014, 04:28 PM #46
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This is exactly what Terry was talking about you try to give someone the steps to properly diagnose something and they just want to what they want to do, yes 17psi can be dangerous under the wrong conditions, get boost control figured out before you do anything, or don't, it's up to you. What do we know...
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05-23-2014, 04:29 PM #47
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05-23-2014, 04:30 PM #48
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Get it running at 12-13psi off the spring first.
Next up on the o2 faults, could be a variety of things. Bad sensors, bad o2 placement design, wiring issues, etc. First thing to eliminate is any software interference. Remove the JB4 small black subconnector with red wires. The o2 sensors run through it and its not used for single turbo stuff anyway. So put just that one subconnector back to stock, clear codes, and see if they come back.Burger Motorsports
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05-23-2014, 04:34 PM #49
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What are you talking about? What do you think I'm doing? I'm getting boost control figured out. My spring is slightly stiffer than what map 4 is allowing to target, therefore I have to use a different map to even test out boost control, what is the big deal in that? Everything else looks to be in check, so now I need to figure out this O2 sensor issue and make sure AFR's are doing what they should and meth is flowing then I can target at or +1 psi over my spring rate and make sure all is good.
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05-23-2014, 04:37 PM #50
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Awesome thanks. I know, I'd love to just put a softer spring in, but it's just not that easy. I appreciate you looking out, but if I can get all else in check, I don't have a problem doing a 17psi pull. It seems that's all my spring is allowing which makes map4 a no go correct? It's not that I'm not listening, but if my spring is really 15-16 psi, then I'm never going to get 12-13 psi on map4
Going to try pulling the black wire now and see if the codes come back.
Again, thank you for your help, this is exactly what I'm looking for2013 Audi S6 stock but shopping....
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