Removing OEM inlet pipe tips and tricks.
Hey guys,
I just removed the OEM inlet pipes and wanted to share my experience with the community to maybe help someone else out.
First of all, I did this during a turbo swap so the subframe was out which was helpful, so if you are planning to go with upgraded twins I highly recommend doing this job at the same time regardless of whose Inlets you decide to purchase.
The rear inlet is simply going to have to be cut. I tried about 10 different ways to remove it in one piece before finally submitting to the fact that the only way to accomplish that would be to drop the motor, simply too tight near the rear turbo area. I will upload some pictures tomorrow to help with the visuals. But for now I will add the text while it's fresh in my mind. This write up assumes you have read other write-ups about getting everything cleared to the point of removal such as down pipes, filters, fresh air cabin filter deck, valve cover beauty cover, drained coolant system and removed the reservoir tank and vacuum canisters. If you are doing turbos at the same time you'll also have the old units removed and water pump and Thermostat. Plenty of write-ups for all of those with a quick search.
For the rear inlet, make sure you remove the pcv hose amd small wire plug going to it from the inlet. Therw are two tabs on the front and back that must be gently pryed out with a small flat blade screw driver. It then simply pops up and out.
There are 2 T30 torx screws that hold the inlet to the back of the cylinder head. There is no room to fit a ratchet and socket back there so it took some Macgyvering to accomplish removal. I used a T30 bit from a cheap screwdriver bitset I have had for years. These can be found at almost any hardware store and usually come in a case or rubber strip with various other type bits and screwdriver heads.
It requires a 1/4" wrench, I have a full set of ratcheting wrenches which made the job much simpler. I put a layer of electrical tape over the back of the bit to hold it in the wrenches boxed end and keep it from sliding around. It takes a minute to situate your hands over the passenger side fender and get back there and feel the torx bit's way into the screw head. Once you get it in, break it loose and give it about two turns to fully losen it. For mine after that they were easily removed with fingers to expedite the task. Both are accomplished the same way.
With wverything disconnected from thw rwar inlet and it being loose now, you can get at it from under the car and pull it off the turbo (if your not swapping to hybrids and already have them removed) and pull it towards the passenger side of the car as nuvh as possible. I cut the thin tube with a small body air saw which made quick work through the plastic. But you will likely need a longer sawsall blade if the turbos are not being removed. You should cut it just before the bend towards the turbo inlet. Once it is cut it will pull out easily from the top towards the drivers side of the car. Rear one done!
For the front inlet, I think it will need to be cut to remove unless your turbos and estriol are your for replacement. Mine were out so I was able to remove the two t30 torx screws holding the inlet to the front of the motor . I was able to use a ratchet on these, tight but workable. Once loose, fingers again were faster and easier then continuing with the ratchet. I then removed the large upper radiator hose, quick spring clips just like throttle body flange, simply use a small flat tip to lift it up and snap it into the unlocked position. These hose fitting were tight and required some wiggling and light pressure with a large flat blade driver to break loose. Don't get crazy when prying, it is plastic after all. Once both ends are loose, remove and see the new clearance available to maneuver the inlet. Mine went out the bottom with a little twisting and care to make sure all the hoses were unlatched from the molded on loom on the inlet. Much cleaner looking with it removed and belt changes look like they will be a snap now.
If your turbos and waterpump are still on the car, you will need to cut the inlet same as the rear one and remove from the top.
All in all the actual job of removing the inlet with the right tools I listed isn't too bad but requires removal of alot of other items to gain access. I would say after doing this that I would wait and do Inlets at the same time as upgraded turbos or at least downpipes because the job piggy backs well and will save alot of extra work. If you are just doing inlets and want to remove all of the oem inlet piping, Plan on about 4-5 hours start to finish first time around with proper tools on the fast side and more if your a leisurely wrenches. Hope this helps and I will post up some pictures tomorrow to go along with the writup and make things clearer!
Chris
