The CAN Tool has been discontinued. If you purchased it from us you can just send it back for a refund.
On the codes, problem code looks to be 120208, boost pressure too high. What tune/settings are being used currently?
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The CAN Tool has been discontinued. If you purchased it from us you can just send it back for a refund.
On the codes, problem code looks to be 120208, boost pressure too high. What tune/settings are being used currently?
Hi Terry,Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry@BMS
I am actually not running any tune. Car just has downpipes and competition package, nothing more. We did try to install a BMS tune on it last week but it wouldn't work and was determined to be possibly defective. Could this have been an old code from when that was in? Thanks for the help
That's certainly possible. Were you the guys who installed it on the MAF instead of the MAP and fried the box? :) If so I know a new box was sent along for it.
Clear all codes and see what you can recreate.
Hey Terry,Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry@BMS
It's possible, I'm not sure to be honest - would have to check with the shop. I'm not the best with the technical stuff...actually far from the best lol. Hence why I leave my work in the hands of the experts. All I know is that the new unit has arrived and is going on my car Thursday. Can't wait!
I did show that specific code to a knowledgable friend and he said that the catless DPs could open the turbos up to boost and that may explain that code?
However, Im assuming that it isn't a code you see with just DPs based on your reply.
As you recommended we are clearing the codes today and putting the CAN tool back on. Let's see what happens. I'll order the BT cable so I may check codes easier.
At least it doesn't appear to be anything serious.
Thanks for the help Terry - much appreciated!
Update...
The guy that does my coding tried to clear the codes for me remotely but my CEL remained on. I turned off the car and plugged in the CAN tool. Was driving today and noticed the CEL was gone.
Not sure what to make of this. I don't think the remote code clearing worked as the light should have gone immediately off. I haven't heard of a restart being required. Maybe the CAN tool started working again?
Only time will tell I guess with the CAN tool. I'm probably going to sell it (if working) or return it if it doesn't work. I miss having my p3 gauge which takes up the OBD port. I love the features and I can clear codes with it just by pressing two buttons. Also the CEL isn't really annoying as it doesn't pop up on the I drive when starting up.
Update. Went for a drive today and the CEL came on. Was doing well in the triple digits during the drive but I believe the light came on 10 minutes after this when I was at low speeds. Again, it was just the CEL symbol and no warning or I drive message. I unplugged and plugged in the CAN tool but it stayed. Went to a mini meet and was revving the engine then parked the car. Went to start the car and CEL gone. Not sure if it went away while turning on to rev.
Seems like the CAN tool is working sometimes....not sure what to make from this.
The CAN Tool is not going to block a CEL from coming up. If you get a CEL, read it using a BT cable, and use the code to resolve the physical issue with the vehicle.
yeah I understand it just takes care of annoyance ones, as I posted the codes my car was throwing on the first page. There appears to be no real physical issue to resolve with the car. If an "important" CEL came on it wouldn't just go off by itself, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry@BMS
Ordered my BT cable so it's on the way. I didn't clear any codes but no CEL is on anymore hence why I think it's the CAN tool taking care of the annoyances, but just not doing it all the time as the CEL will come on every so often then go off.
Are you trying to use the BT cable to disable the codes from coming on permanently?
Just wanted to give some updates...
CAN tool has been working perfectly. I guess I just needed to hold down the button on the tool or unplug/plug. I didn't have directions when getting it as it was off the site.
***I was able to produce this error that people claim is happening at WOT at high speeds. I have downpipes & BMS piggyback. Today when WOT in Mexico right at 150mph a "drivetrain malfunction error" came on. The car wouldn't let me downshift with the paddles but I was able to with the shifter. While in Mexico with just downpipes & after getting the BMS installed I have done 130-140 dozens of times without issue. Didn't go up to 150 though so I can't say specifically what may be the cause. Maybe this was just isolated or the extra 10mph made the difference. After simply turning the car off and on everything was fine and there was no code to read. It's such a minor "issue" that it doesn't really matter.
My dynos from stock, to downpipes to downpipes & BMS should be up soon. On a mustang dyno and the BMS run was done in warmer weather (approx 30 degrees warmer). We saw great tq gains and not too bad HP gains. We couldn't dyno the car in 5th gear because of the speed limiter I was told as it would mess up at the end of the dyno. How are some of you guys dynoing in 5th? From my understanding 5th is the most accurate representation of the power of this car. I would be willing to get on a dynojet once this is figured out.
Dyno runs in 5th gear end at 6200rpm. While runs in 4th gear can go to redline.
Thanks Terry, makes sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry@BMS
Quick question: I notice in the instructions for the BMS unit it says to connect to the software after installing as the BMS unit is preconfigured for N63 settings. The only setting to change is "Future Use 0-100" from 0 to 1 as mentioned in the manual. What exactly does this setting do? We actually did not do this after installation as I wasn't aware of it until now that I am reading the instructions. I believe my tuner thought it was already preconfigured for my M5.
Thanks Terry - am loving the extra power. Car felt smooth to begin with but now even better. The dynos to be posted show a much smoother graph compared to stock.
Just got my laptop successfully hooked up and I guess the shop didn't realize variables had to be changed. Based on the settings it read my boost over stock was at 2.25 when it should have been at 3 and as mentioned above future use was set to 0 instead of 1.
These are now corrected. Note to self to read the manual myself in case shop needs a reminder...
Curious as to how big a difference these settings will make.
Email for any specific questions. I don't check this forum as often as I should!Quote:
Originally Posted by NikB316
But the setting change is due to the s63's 3.5 bar MAP sensors.
Any update on what's going on with this car? Was really enjoying this :p