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As long as your exhaust post-turbo can support the HP, BP won't change. The extra air mass just bypasses through the WGs. Terry has prob seen more n2o logs then most... I'd be curious to see the WGDC difference.
Different setups will have different HP limits, so difficult to relate them... HP vs cyl pressures won't be the same. Peak torque should be fairly relatable though.
cheap compared to?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sticky
An s65 for example.Quote:
Originally Posted by Torgus
Honda B16 is cheaper doe!Quote:
Originally Posted by Njz
You mean a larger engine from a car that costs almost 2x as much and there were fewer built? Isn't that just taken for granted?Quote:
Originally Posted by Njz
This might be the worst way to test to test the strength because you're going to have no idea to know exactly at what point did something start bending (concern for long term reliability) vs. break (absolute point of no return).Quote:
Originally Posted by klipseracer
To each's own, but like everyone said thethere's no way you're going to surpass the numbers from the VTT S3 prototype or FFTEC ST on stock turbos, but it'll be interesting to see how the motor handles the low-end TQ bomb.
I doubt anyone will attempt to spray down low. Your spray should begin roughly around peak torque and hold just up to shift point. This means no additional down low power which will make things break and the car will continue to pull to shift point. Just the way that mine is setup.
I've got a fund that I could do a variety of things with. Might do a small bit of renovating of my patio which I've been really needing to do or maybe I'll do this. I was thinking like stepping up to something like a 500 shot over the course several pulls, slowly getting bigger. Perhaps this test would be best saved once I have the bigger turbo(s) on. Then rebuild.
Anything with an M on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Torgus
That's the whole point namely in the BMW realm. If it was understood why did you ask?Quote:
Originally Posted by Torgus
I like patios. If I were you, big turbo it up, add nitrous, but rather than figure out limits, hit your goal +50ish whp and go have fun with it!Quote:
Originally Posted by klipseracer
For me, the fun is in the build. I realized, that I spend very little time driving my cars. I tend to shop, buy, build, sell(or in my latest case, wreck). But as people mentioned, the fueling shouldn't be an issue since if I ran a ProEFI say, the 112 that is coming out with the proper Undercover intake, I should be able to run as big of a shot as I want, no? If I set the turbos to 18psi then then wastegates should be able to expell the surge in exhaust from the nitrous, right?
Has anyone even ran a wet shot besides Undercover? I mean, besides being a mostly bad idea, assuming drive train is in order and an EMS, what stops someone from running a 500, direct port wet shot?
500 shot? I dont even.... I seriously doubt any piece of the puzzle would take a hit that hard via nitrous. If your motor held together, your driveline would be shot. Nitrous is a surge of instant power not a smoothly ramped up increase in power. Hope you are trolling for lulz and not seriously considering trying to break shit for the sake of breaking shit.
I say do the patio first :)Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Bait
Quote:
Originally Posted by Njz
Actually you do run a ramped up Nitrous shot using the new controllers like on the NX set ups..... we are going to do a 50-150 hp ramped up dual stage shot on my 540i soon..... only mods will be water/meth and tune..... really don't care if I blow the thing cause replacements are cheap !
A local N20 guy reckons anything over 1/2 the engine max power at peak rev equivalent is a sure thing for damage on an un-modded set up...... (that is on a NA engine)... the gains on some of the turbo N20 systems seem to add a synergistic affect... eg a 50 shot on someone's N54 here added roughly 80 whp (a thread was done a while back)
I understand that there are progressive controllers but how progressive can you make a 500 shot. The rpm window is still very small on the n54 after peak torque you are talking about maybe 3500 rpm window?
That would be a question for ProEFI. @undercoverQuote:
Originally Posted by Njz
Possible to run a 500 or somewhere in the window, is there enough RPM to ramp one up? 200 was already done.
We covered a lot if this years ago, search my threads.
I don't recall anything about a wet shot, but I will look. I think I remember the thread actually.Quote:
Originally Posted by George Smooth
Okay, found the thread:
http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...light=wet+shot
But this is with you on a limited Auto transmission and you were only running something like a 75 shot. This would be to hit something like 800+. I want to know what the obstacles are. I'm talking about a HUGE wet shot, something that IMO can only be ramped up and controlled with a stand alone.
Garth?! Shed some light brother.
The barrier will be the OEM exhaust housings and back pressure going sky high in the exhaust manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by klipseracer
So you're saying the stock internal gates will not be sufficient to expell anything much bigger than a 75 shot? Were you seeing overboost?Quote:
Originally Posted by George Smooth
Burning fuel makes gas. While nitrous is more volumetrically efficient than normal air by a substantial margin, EGT and backpressure are going to be an issue. If you open the gates to help combat this (slowing the turbo with hopes of focusing on your more volumetrically efficient fuel source), you will lose power from the oxygen you were getting from the higher boost pressures. Of course you'll make this up with the nitrous, but it's still a catch because you'll need more nitrous.
There's a reason big turbo cars use nitrous to spool the turbo. It does a great job at increasing manifold pressure down low, and the turbo benefits can then be realized for the cheap. I'd be interested in the results though for sure, I really have very little experience with nitrous.
I went up to a 1.4mm jet with no boost creep at 16psi. Should be good for 560-570. With the slippage on the road I lost interest. Kit is still in the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by klipseracer
at that point and jet size due to manifold design it's best you go direct port as I wuss getting manifold pooling which is the recipe for a back fire.
BP/EGT are directly related to boost, so as long as you can maintain target boost you are basically ok. At some point (maybe this point is fairly early) the housing/manifold can't accommodate the increased airflow. Higher boost WGs are more closed... I'd think there's a good amount of room. You may need to start playing with WGDC (lower base) with a certain size shot.