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Car: 2010 535i
My serpentine belt broke and no I have a few codes:
P0016
P0015
P0012
P054b - seems to be the EXACT same description as the P0015
P052b - seems to be the EXACT same description as P0012
Misfire codes on all cylinders
P0300
I pulled the plugs and they were ALL fouled.
How do I get rid of the codes?
Do you not have anything to clear codes with?
I have cleared them, but they keep coming back as soon as I start the car it trips a CEL (1/2 engine light) and SES light. Checked all the connections and wiring, and now im just like WTF! Car ran perfectly normal before the belt shredded.
I even pulled the valve cover and checked the VANOS unit, there was no free play. Cleaned the VANOS solenoids, started the car and pulled them out after car cooled and they were filled with oil, so I know it's getting oil. I'm not getting any low oil pressure lights or anything. Not sure what the heck is wrong with the freaking car, It wont idle and stalls and dies. I'm about ready to strap some C4 to it.
What the heck is going on?
On 135/335 p/s pulley can contact subframe causing shredded belt but i dont know if that can happen on e60. Check your front crank seal for leaks to make sure a piece of the belt didn't get sucked into the engine and cause the timing chain to jump teeth. Also check wiring for camshaft sensors and vanos solenoids for damage from belt. Also low voltage can cause random weird problems so check all pulleys, put on a new belt and check alternator.
should I try disconnecting the battery to reboot the system?
I agree with this. I had a serp belt break on a WRX, which broke a piece of the timing belt cover, which sent a shard of the plastic cover into the timing belt, causing it to skip a few teeth. It was like the movie Final Destination. I reset cam timing and all was well.Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph
If it isn't idling, mechanical timing may be off, or something external (like a sensor or plug) broke. If it isn't obvious, it is probably worth paying the dealer a couple shop hours to diagnose.
Good luck man, you'll get this.
It cranks and idles for about 2 minutes going from 650rpms to 850rpms and then dies.
UPDATE: disconnected and reconnected the battery along with changing all the spark plugs. All the misfire codes have disappeared, the P0012 and P0015 code has disappeared. The car idles smooth for about 2-3 minutes then began to choke like its about to turn off. I pulled the codes now there is only 1 code that still pop up;
P054b - Cold Start "B" Camshaft Position Timing Over - Retarded Bank 1
What the heck is this???
UPDATE: disconnected and reconnected the battery along with changing all the spark plugs. All the misfire codes have disappeared, the P0012 and P0015 code has disappeared. The car idles smooth for about 2-3 minutes then began to choke like its about to turn off, it pops a half engine CEL along with a check engine light. I pulled the codes now there is only 1 code that still pop up;
P054b - Cold Start "B" Camshaft Position Timing Over - Retarded Bank 1
What the heck is this???
Some Freeze Frame Data from that code:
Engine RPM: 736
Spark Advance: - 15.0*
Fuel pressure: 13520
ECU Volts: 13.938
Calc Load (%): 95.7
STFT B1 (%): -23.4
STFT B2 (%): -19.5
I think I just solved the mystery. I won't know for sure until tomorrow but I'm 99.99% sure I have my finger on the issue. I swapped the VANOS solenoids around and P054b went away and P052b - Cold Start "A" Camshaft Position Timing Over - Retarded Bank 1 popped up. I'm going to BMW to get a new VANOS solenoid in the morning.
Sourced the P054b AND P052b codes and solutions from the N55 diagnostics here (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=591928), which all seemed the same as N54 code descriptions.
P054b/P52b:
Potential problem source(s):- Contaminated oil passage at VANOS solenoid valve- Oil pressure too low- Defective wires or plug terminals on VANOS solenoid valve- VANOS solenoid valve seized. Vanos Solenoid Valve the camshaft cannot be adjusted to specified position.
Glad you figured it out.